Sunday, June 2, 2013

Bodysurfing Meditation

The surf rumbles like a distant subway train, rolling into shore with the rush of hard rain on concrete, and rolling back out with the hiss of static. I'm further out than anyone today, chest deep in the frigid water, my arms bent at the elbows and held close to my chest, cold as I've ever been, waiting for the next good wave to lift me up so I can ride it back to shore.

This guy swims out next to me, chatting away, like my own private hype man: "Yeah, man, you got this...oh, this wave isn't big enough, leave it alone."

But now, here, rolling in a couple feet overhead, is the wave, and I drop in while he whoops, already yards behind me as I suddenly become a part of the ocean, in with the tide, practically flying, not a thought in my head.

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